The City of Janesville's website will be the primary source of current information for home and business owners in
flood prone areas. Visit
www.ci.janesville.wi.us to check it out.
Free sandbag locations (please also check the above website for lastest sandbag locations,
as they can add new ones).


The Rock County Sheriff's Office, in cooperation with Rock County Emergency Management and Public Works
Highway Division, has free sandbags and sand available at these locations:
No matter where they live, residents must bring their own shovels.

~ Town of Janesville residents can go to the old barn, near the intersection of Hwy 14 and West River Road.
Complete Flood Information A to Z
Warning: never let children play in
flood water as it poses a health risk of
water borne illness.



Flood topics covered
For Janesville, WI  Residents
Animated with storm tracks for Wisconsin residents
~ Town of Rock residents can go to the Rock Town Hall, 5102 S. County D, Afton. More
information                    related to Rock Township flooding is at
www.tn.rock.wi.gov
~ Town of Milton and Town of Fulton residents can go to the same location as last year... the intersection
of        Hwy 59 and Richardson Spring Road in Newville. To get sandbags, residents must call their
respective            town hall. Call Milton Town Hall at 868-2465 and Fulton Town Hall at 868-4103.
Your Affordable Solution!
Correct steps to take when water is in your basement
Determine structural stability:
Is it structurally safe to enter? Before entering your home or business, take a look at the ceiling and supporting
walls. Do not enter if the ceiling is sagging due to water build up or the walls are collapsed. If you are not certain the
building is safe, or if you have any question regarding personal safety, stay out and have a professional make an
assessment. If the building is determined safe, walk in carefully and inspect indoor stability. Do not enter any deep
standing water. If your property is determined unsafe, or you cannot live in your home while repairs are being made,
make arrangements for temporary alternate lodging. A good local place is
www.51kitchenettemotel.com  Keep
records of all additional expenses incurred as a result. Most insurance companies will cover additional living
expenses.

Shut off electricity/gas to areas of the home that might flood.
Even if flood waters are not reaching the electrical outlets, the risk of electrical shock to someone working in a
flooded basement is high with electric motors in the furnace, freezer, washer, dryer and other appliances. Shut off
electrical breakers or unscrew fuses.
Don't stand in water and turn off electrical switches!!! If this must be
done, use a dry piece of wood or a plastic or rubber pole to do the switching and stand on a block of wood or plastic
crate that doesn't conduct electricity. If flood waters are getting close to the electrical entrance box, call the power
supplier, and have the electrical supply to the house disconnected. If the floor is damp but not really flooded, ground
fault circuit interrupters reduce the risk of using electricity. In newer homes, interrupters can be identified by the
buttons between the top and bottom outlets. They can be added to any outlet or in an extension cord to turn off the
power if there's danger of water. Do not hesitate to call a qualified electrician if you are uncomfortable with turning
off your electricity. Information provided by Homeland Security.

Turn off gas of fuel valves (natural gas/propane/fuel oil):
Once the electricity is shut of, you need to make sure any valves for natural
gas, propane or fuel oil are shut off. Sometimes the flood waters can move
gas appliances or pipes and break or loosen a connection creating a gas or
fuel oil leak. To turn the valve off, you must first locate the gas meter which
valve may have a handle or may just have a knob used to turn it open or
closed. The valve is open or "on" when the handle is parallel to the gas pipe.
To turn it off, use a pipe wrench or channel-lock to turn the valve. Turn it a
quarter so the handle is perpendicular (90 degree to the supply line) to close
the gas valve. If you have a fuel oil tank, shut the supply valve off at the tank.

Turn off the water supply:
Turn off the main water supply. Locate the valve and turn it clockwise to turn
it off. You may need to use pliers or an adjustable wrench. The main water
valve is usually located in the basement, near the water meter, or outside the
building. If you cannot complete this task yourself, contact a plumber
immediately. Do not use piped water until you are sure it is safe. Use bottled
water or boiled water for washing, drinking and cooking.

Use protective gear:
In many cases of a water damage events, water is contaminated with sewage, mud and other debris posing health
hazards.
Children should never be in this water. Protect yourself during clean up using protective gear such as:
Disposable plastic gloves, respirator with a particulate filter...N-95 respirator...or half face respirator with HEPA filter,
goggles or protective eyewear, disposable full body clothing, head gear, rubber boots.
Website that sell these items.
Be sure to use disinfectants on hands, especially before eating.

Ventilate your home:
Next, introduce the flow of fresh outside air into the home and basement by opening your doors and windows. If
necessary, use large fans or blowers powered by a portable emergency generator. This ventilation of the home
helps to dissipate any residual fumes and will help to begin reducing moisture levels.

How fast should I remove water from my basement?:
If there is not that much water, remove it as quickly as possible and start drying out in less than 48 hours to minimize
mold growth. If you have a substantial amount of water, you need to remove water slowly and carefully.
You have to go against your instinct of removing large amounts of water from a basement quickly. Why? Because
there is still likely enormous water pressure in the soil outside your walls and under the slab. The water in your
basement may actually be balancing the outside pressure and without it, the basement walls could crack or crumble
inward. Be sure you are not working alone and have someone with you in case of an emergency. Once the flood
water has receded and is no longer standing water outside your home, you can begin removing the water in the
basement with a pump. If you are using a gasoline powered pump or emergency generator, please make sure they
are only used outside. Improperly using these tools inside will create exhaust fumes and lead to deadly carbon
monoxide poisoning. Remove roughly one third of the water, pumping out about 2 to 3 feet of flood water. You want
to wait now and make sure there is not more water leaking in from outside the basement walls, so put a mark on the
wall at the current level and wait until the next day. Once a night has passed, check the water level. It should not
have gone up. If it did, you cannot yet pump out the basement. Mark the new risen level and wait overnight. The
next day pump the water another 2 to 3 feet. Mark the wall and check the level the following day. Once the water
stops rising, pump another 2 to 3 feet. Wait overnight to make sure the water did not rise. Repeat until all the water
is drained from your basement. It will likely take several days and should not be rushed if your basement is
substantially flooded. If at any time you notice signs of structural failure in the walls or slab such as cracking or
buckling, stop draining immediately as the water outside the basement has not drained and is causing excessive
pressure on the structure.
Move Hazardous materials to higher locations:
This includes paint, oil, cleaning supplies and other dangerous materials.
Move valuables to higher locations:
Get items such as irreplaceable family photo albums, High School yearbooks,
personal videotapes, tax records, insurance policies and household inventories
of the bottom shelves and move to higher places.
Preventative steps to reduce flood and water damage
Many things can be done before the snow melts or before a heavy rainstorm to reduce damage to home and
property. This checklist can help you  prepare to reduce the severity of flood and water damage.

Check your sump pump:
Clean the sump pump and pit. Test the pump by pouring water into the pit. Consider having a spare submersible
portable sump pump. Make sure the discharge hose delivers the water several feet away from the house to a well
drained area that slopes away from the house. If the hose outlet is too close to the house foundation, or on flat
ground, the water may simply recycle down through the house drain tile. Don't run sump pump water into a rural
septic system because the water may saturate the drain field. In cities, running sump pump water into the sanitary
system may overload the system and cause sewage backup; plus it may be illegal.

Plug basement floor drains with removable grids:
A flexible rubber ball about 1 & 1/4 the inside diameter of the pipe can be wedged into the drain to create a tight seal.
The pressure might be quite high so brace the ball securely with a 2x4 against the ceiling. Hold a board or piece of
plywood on the ceiling and slide the 2x4 against the bottom of the board to avoid damage to ceilings. For a
suspended tile ceiling, remove ceiling tiles to get access to the ceiling joists. Span a 2x4 across the two joists and
wedge the vertical 2x4 between it and the ball. Some hardware stores sell a plug that has a rubber center that
expands to fill the pipe when the top and bottom metal plates are squeezed.

Cover basement floor drains with permanent grids:
Place a partially inflated inner tube around the drain, and top it with a square or two of plywood (not particle board).
The plywood must be larger across than the inner tube to cover it. Brace this in place just as with the ball on the
drain. Be prepared for some seepage.

Reduce flooding from other drains:
Unbolt toilets from the floor and plug the outlet pipe using the same procedure as for floor drains. Shower drains can
be plugged this way too. Most washing machines and basic sinks have their drain connections about three feet from
the floor so they may not overflow if the water doesn't get that high. If necessary, these drains can be disconnected
and capped or plugged with braced rubber balls.

Move snow away from the house's foundation:
If the ground is sloped 1 inch per foot near the house, moving snow just 3 to 5 feet from the house will reduce
problems.

Keep water out of window wells:
Since windows can't withstand  much pressure, build dams and contour the ground so water will naturally drain
away from the house.

Get downspouts down in place:
Make sure downspout extensions are in the down position or use flexible tubing so that as snow melts they can
carry the water away from the house. Using salt or a chemical to melt them free will probably damage the lawn.

Prepare appliances for flooding:
Shut off appliances at the fuse box or breaker panel. Put freezers, washers, dryers and other appliances up on wood
or cement blocks to keep the motors above the water level. If high water is imminent and large appliances can't be
moved, wrap them in polyethylene film, tying the film in place with cord or rope. The water will still get in, but most of
the silt won't so cleanup will be easier.
Structural stabilization flood procedures and drying out
The following steps will help stabilize your structure, allowing it to dry faster. Ventilation is the most effective way to
dry out structure interiors. While air conditioning and supplemental dehumidification work well, they are far more
expensive. If possible, open doors and windows and install high velocity industrial fans (air circulators) to move
large volumes of air. Keeping the air moving will significantly reduce the potential for mold. Use a dehumidifyer to
extract water from the room air. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DRY USING HEAT. Heat may promote the growth of mold
and other water borne bacteria. Do not throw away materials until you access whether they are salvageable or not..
Many items may prove their value as the surrounding restoration project proceeds. Wait with the installation of new
materials until the entire structure is completely dry. Obtain a good moisture meter and diligently use it to inspect
throughout your home. Only when all readings are normal (typically under 8% moisture), is it appropriate to begin
replacements.

Divert water from your property:
While water levels are receding, detect potential deficiencies and provide temporary grading and shoring to divert
water away and protect your property and belongings. Successful shoring can be accomplished without increasing
the damage to historic features or materials. All shoring actions should be planned and executed by a qualified
structural engineer or contractor.

Support and reinforcement:
Consult a structural engineer or a licensed contractor and support unstable building components and leaning
structures with temporary reinforcement. Brace and strengthen exposed foundations and decayed or damaged
floors and ceilings. Check bearing locations for movement or settlement.

Roof and drainage:
Clean and repair the structures roof and roof drainage system in order to protect the building from further damage.
If the existing roof has been damaged,  provide temporary protective roof coverings. Clean, repair and reconnect
gutters and downspouts. Keep in mind that water can flow a considerable distance on hard ceilings. Thoroughly
inspect hard ceilings that may be wet. Dry or remove all wet ceiling tiles and gypsum board.

Remove mud and debris:
Carefully remove hose trapped mud and water debris as water recedes. Be careful and do not unnecessarily
damage covered historic finishes or materials. Be sure to remove all sources of moisture within the structure such
as standing water and water logged furnishings. This will also allow faster drying as air moves and ventilates
around those items.  The yard should also be clear of all debris

Insulation:
Remove water soaked insulation from the attic and crawlspaces. If easily accessible without damaging other
materials, remove wet insulation from cavity wall construction.

Drying plaster walls and drying wallboards:
Most plaster walls can be saved if damaged by clean rainwater and treated within 48 hours. However, if soaked in
dirty floodwaters, the wallboard must be replaced. Prior to disturbing wall systems, determine if asbestos is an
issue. If walls are salvageable, drill holes through the plaster to allow proper drainage of water that may be held
within the wall cavity. Start with removing the baseboard several inches above the floor. Then drill holes low
enough, so they will be covered by the baseboard after the wall dries out.  If you are drying interior walls, drill holes
in both sides of the wall. For exterior walls, drill only in the interior side of the wall. Always use safety. Avoid
electrical shock and use a cordless or a hand drill. Be careful while drilling and pay attention to plumbing pipes and
other wirings. Inspect your insulation. If it is wet, it will need to be removed and discarded.

Damaged walls:
Prior to disturbing wall systems, determine if asbestos is an issue.
Remove trapped water from cavity wall construction and interior partitions by carefully removing gypsum wall
boards and baseboards and drilling a drain hole through the plaster and lath near the bottom of each wall cavity.
Remove interior surface of insulated walls to point above water height. Leave walls open for up to 4 weeks or until
they have thoroughly dried. If mold is detected, treat the interior wall studs and plates with a quality biocide that kills
mold at the roots completely. Control mold and mildew in the weeks and months that follow a flood. BLEACH DOES
NOT COMPLETELY KILL MOLD, contrary to popular belief. It will grow back if bleach is used because it does not
completely destroy the roots. Use a biocide to treat mold. If trapped moisture is detected behind wall covering and
paneling, remove them to allow natural drying. Provide ventilation by opening windows and doors and using fans.
Delay permanent repairs until buildings are thoroughly dry (may be several weeks).

Drying wood:
Gradually dry wood using proper ventilation. Usually, swelling and warping of the solid wood, flooring and framing,
will be minimal and will decrease as the wood dries. It is also recommended to carefully remove a board every few
feet to reduce buckling caused by swelling. Protect wet wood floors from unnecessary traffic and abuse, until they
are dry. Wet wood becomes soft and easily damaged.

If the flooded water contained sewage, everything will need to be sanitized, as well.

Drying concrete:
If given enough time and low humidity conditions, concrete will simply dry out on its own. You can accelerate the
process and remove water using a water extraction vacuum and improve humidity conditions by using dehumidifiers
and fans.

Drying the floor:
The basic rule for floor drying is air circulation. Floor covering must be removed to allow air to directly contact the
floor. If you have a crawl space, remove any plastic sheets, vapor barriers, or insulation from underneath the floor.
Reapply only after the floor and foundations are completely dried.
What flood items to keep and what to discard   (OUTDOORS)
One of the toughest decisions you will have to make after a water-related damage is what to keep and what to
discard. Asa general rule, anything you cannot wash and disinfect should be thrown away. The following guide will
help you determine if an item can be restored or must be discarded. IMPORTANT NOTE: these guidelines are
applicable only if the damage was caused by CLEAN water. If you know or suspect that the water source is
contaminated with sewage, chemical or biological pollutants, consult a restoration professional immediately. Do not
use fans for dry-out before determining that the water is clean and sanitary.

Building materials:
Ceiling tiles must be discarded. The only exception would be if a ceiling tile has become wet due to a minor leak or
a steam leak and the shape of the tile has not been altered. In this case the ceiling tile can be air-dried and reused.
Concrete or cinder block:
These surfaces can be kept and cleaned to remove stains and mold growth.
Cellulose or fiberglass insulation:
These hold water and wicks water up inside a wall. It must be removed if wet to prevent mold and decay.
Wallboard (drywall and gypsum board):
It may be dried in place if there is no obvious swelling and the seams are intact. Wallboards must be removed and
replaced if you detect the presence of mold or if there is a visual swelling and shape alteration. Wet paneling
should be removed from the wall for inspection and drying.
Carpet and backing:
This can usually be cleaned and restored if treated in less than 24-48 hours and was dried completely. Make sure
that the sub floor under the carpet is inspected and dried as well. If sewage contaminated water covered the
carpet, discard it for health safety reasons. Also discard if the carpet was underwater for 48 hours or more.
Flooring:
Such as linoleum, ceramic tile, and vinyl can be salvaged if dried quickly. These floorings must be removed if you
have wood sub-flooring to allow the wood to dry thoroughly (this may take several weeks). Discard this type of
flooring if you detect signs of mold.
Hardwood floor boards:
These must be removed to prevent buckling. As wood gains moisture, swelling occurs. By removing a board every
few feet you will be able to reduce buckling caused by swelling.
Non-porous, hard surfaces such as plastic or metal surfaces:
These can be kept but must be cleaned properly.
Solid wood surfaces:
Can be kept if dried within 24-48 hours and there is no sign of mold. Do not try to force open swollen doors or
drawers. Discard wood pieces if severely damaged or if you detect signs of mold.
HVAC ducts:
If these have been soaked in water they will probably need to be replaced if they are flexible ducts and made from
duct board. Internal insulated ducts will also require replacement. If the ducts are made from sheet metal and have
external insulation, they can be cleaned and retained.

What flood items to keep and what to discard   (INDOORS)

Again, as a general rule, anything you cannot wash and disinfect should be thrown away.
IMPORTANT NOTE: the following guidelines are applicable only if the damage is caused by CLEAN water. If you
know or suspect that the water source was contaminated with sewage, chemical or biological pollutants, consult a
restoration professional immediately. Do not use fans for dry out before determining if the water is clean and
sanitary.

Indoor furnishings and personal belongings:
Like with building materials, consult a restoration specialist if you are indecisive about high value or sentimental
items.
Upholstered furniture:
This may be impossible to salvage if it has been badly soaked or if it has been submerged in waters for more than
24-48 hours. If you find signs of mold, discard the item.
Hardwood furniture:
This can be salvaged if dried thoroughly within 24-48 hours and no mold growth is found.
Laminate furniture:
If this has become de-laminated, it should be disposed of  because the pressed wood under the laminate  absorbs
water and is hard to dry.
Furniture made of particle board or pressed wafer board:
These should be discarded. The exception would be if the furniture has become wet due to a steam leak.
Appliances and electrical devices:
These must be carefully examined, preferably by an electrician. Discard all circuit breakers and fuses that have
been submerged.
Books and papers:
These can often be salvaged if treated properly. Do not press, open or close books, or folded documents. Keep all
water damaged books, documents, artwork, and photos in a frost free freezer or meat locker for a later treatment.
Window drapes:
These can  mostly be dried and restored using different techniques depending on the different type of fabric.
Toys and play equipment:
These must be discarded if waterlogged or not cleanable. Discard all stuffed toys. If you can't completely clean and
disinfect, discard any item a toddler or baby might put in his mouth.
Fabrics, clothes and linens:
These can usually be washed and salvaged but must be discarded if drenched or heavily contaminated.
Food and kitchenware:
Discard all food and medicines, including garden produce, that have come in contact with flood waters. Only foods
that are sealed in air-tight metal cans that are not bulging or damaged and have been properly sanitized can be
saved. If you've lost power for more than 2 hours, discard any perishable foods, including meat, poultry, fish, eggs
and leftovers that have been above 40 degrees F for 2 hours or more.
Sanitize dishes, cooking utensils and food preparation areas before using them. Throw away wooden cutting
boards, plastic utensils, baby bottle nipples and pacifiers, since its nearly impossible to safely clean them. Until
determined, purify all cooking and drinking water.
Mold removal
Generally, if an item was damaged by mold and cannot be cleaned, it must be discarded.
is recommended to consult a remediation specialist as his experience and equipment will help making decisions
as to what can be salvaged and what must be discarded. In addition, different types of mold may affect your items
differently so it is recommended to test a sample of the mold to facilitate a remediation plan. This will also be
helpful if you are indecisive about high value or sentimental items that have been affected by mold.
Be extremely careful and pay special attention to the following:

~ Infant and children toys
~ Food utensils
~ Appliances such as the refrigerator, freezer
~ Clothes and linens

Mold remediation companies can also identify the moisture source that causes the mold growth and eliminate it to
prevent future growth. In some cases a mold test is required to identify the type of mold growing in your property
and to apply the right treatment. In addition, removing mold is not enough: the affected area must be thoroughly
cleaned and disinfected to prevent health related hazards. If you have a high relative humidity level in a room or
area (55% or higher) then you should strongly consider a dehumidifier.
What to look for in a dehumidifier.
To determine the relative humidity, you will need a sensor. Relative humidity sensor.
Basic cleaning techniques:
It is recommended to hire a professional to handle mold cleaning. However, if you choose to do it yourself, start
with determining what to keep and what to discard. Be sure to take protective measures before you start and work
in a well ventilated area. Turn off your HVAC system before cleaning mold. Wash hard surface items such as
metal, glass, solid wood, plastic and other non-porous materials with a non-ammonia detergent and hot water. For
rough surface materials such as concrete, use a stiff brush. Porous materials such as  upholstered furniture made
of pressed particle materials must be cleaned, disinfected and completely dried. Monitor these items for several
days for any growth and odors-if any mold develops, discard the item or seek professional help. If the surfaces
you are cleaning are dry, lightly mist them with water before cleaning the mold. Wetting mold is important to
prevent it from drying as dry mold spores have a better chance of becoming airborne during the cleaning process.
Thoroughly clean all surfaces in the area including surfaces that do not have any visible mold on them, since mold
spores can be invisible and remain dormant for months.
Basic disinfection techniques:
Do a little research for a good "mold killing" biocide (some only "clean mold"). Scroll down on this website until you
see "Professional EPA
fungicide.  There are also safe, non-toxic mold preventers available. "BioShield 75" is a
patented, EPA registered and USDA accepted revolutuionary new product that
prevents the growth of a wide
array of bacteria, mildew, algae and yeast for a minimum of 90 days. If you only use bleach, the mold may grow
back since bleach does not kill the "root" of the mold. It is no longer recognized by OSHA as a permanent mold
treatment; this is especially true for wood products. However, bleach is still good for basic disinfection. Clean
materials first before disinfecting. Disinfect all cleaned surfaces with a bleach solution (1 cup of bleach in 1 gallon
of water). Allow the solution to stay on the surface for 10-15 minutes before rinsing with clear water. Once the
surface has been cleaned and disinfected, allow it to dry completely. This may usually take 2-3 days but with
some materials it may take even longer.
Rated #1 do-it-yourself Home Mold Test
Sick Building Syndrome
Sick Building Syndrome is a term used to describe situations in which building occupants experience acute health
conditions related to time spent in a certain building. These unspecific illnesses are usually unexplained and
cannot be identified.

The complaints may be specific to a particular room, or may be widespread throughout the building. This set of
symptoms is usually associated with indoor exposure to chemicals or microorganisms and is characterized by
headaches, fatigue, eye nose and throat irritations, and skin disorders.

Another symptom is the fact that most of the complainants report relief soon after leaving the building or the
contaminated room.

A 1984 World Health Organization report into the syndrome suggested up to 30% of new and remodeled
buildings worldwide may be the subject of excessive complaints related to indoor air quality.

The causes of Sick Building Syndrome

The main cause of Sick Building Syndrome is a situation in which a building is operated or maintained in a
manner that is conflicting with its original design or approved operating procedures.

Additional reasons that may lead to Sick Building Syndrome are associated with poor indoor air quality usually
caused by poor building design, poor ventilation, and improper occupant activities.

Ventilation:
Inadequate ventilation occurs if heating, ventilating and air conditioning (HVAC) systems do not effectively
distribute air to people in the building.

Biological contaminants:
Biological contaminants that may often be found inside the building are bacteria, mold, pollen, and viruses. These
contaminants may breed in standing water that has accumulated in ducts, humidifiers or drain pans. Inadequate
temperature and humidity levels will contribute to the growth of biological contaminants. For example: if humidity
levels are not controlled and kept under 45%, mold will start growing. An additional problem is that some of these
contaminants can grow invisibly, making it very hard to detect. Another type of biological contaminants includes
insect or bird droppings. These are usually easier to detect and eliminate with proper maintenance.

Indoor chemical contaminants:
Indoor air pollution usually comes from sources inside the building. The following is a list of possible indoor air
pollution sources: adhesives, carpeting, cleaning materials, copy machines and printers, wood products.

Outdoor chemical contaminants:
Indoor air quality is often affected by outdoor air that enters a building and can be a source of air pollution. The
following is a list of possible outdoor air pollution sources: building exhausts, motor vehicle exhausts, plumbing
vents. These air pollutants usually enter a building through poorly located air intake vents, unsealed windows,
and other building openings.

Mold Health Hazards:
Mold is a health hazard to be taken seriously.Those at most risk are infants and children, the elderly, pregnant
women, people with respiratory diseases, a weakened immune system, and those who suffer from allergies.  It
can cause an endless list of health problems, including lung infections.  
Symptoms of mold exposure.


Mold and your Property Value

Like most property owners who have experienced some type of contamination such as mold, you have probably
asked yourself some of the following questions: How will this issue affect my property value? Will my property
value decrease due to the contamination? Do I really have to report an old mold problem that is now fixed?

Answering these questions is not a simple task since in many cases the answers depend on the buyer's
perception of the condition. In addition, the extent or amount of the contamination is also a factor influencing the
buyer's perception of a particular type of contamination.

When your property has been contaminated, the stigma is generally a negative factor and its impact on value
often reflects that. The prices negotiated for contaminated real estate are often lower than prices offered for
non-contaminated property of the same standards and conditions.

Education is the answer:
The best way to change the stigma and its impact is through education. In order to change the negative impact of
a contaminated property, the buyer's perception must be changed. If the buyer is properly educated, he is more
likely to address the issue based on facts and knowledge rather than judging it by an emotional feeling.

Here are the main aspects of mold contamination that a buyer needs to consider and understand as he makes a
decision in regards to a property that is currently contaminated or that was contaminated in the past:

1. Structural and health hazards that may result from mold
2. Different factors, involved in testing for mold types and quantity
3. Process of mold remediation and decontamination
4. Post remediation clearance test for air quality
5. Importance of humidity and moisture control as a preventative technique

As the buyer becomes educated about topics like mold contamination, his perception of the condition will most
likely change leading to a change in the impact of the stigma.

Another Property value issue:
Another mold related aspect that may affect your property's value and marketability is the appraisal. Appraisers
need to learn the topic of mold more carefully to assure that their perception of mold contamination does not
unfairly lead to a lowered appraisal.
Fraud awareness During Disaster Recovery

Residents should be alert for scams related to flood clean-up and recovery. Here are a few fraud prevention tips.

  • Be alert to phone calls and door-to-door solicitors who you have not contacted that offer quick repairs or
    promise to speed up insurance claims.
  • Honest companies and employees will have proper identification & insignias on their vehicles or uniforms.
  • There should be no high pressure sales tactics, such as " The offer is at a special price, but only if you act
    now."
  • Get a written estimate and insist on a written contract with written guarantees if a contractor is selected to do
    the work.
  • Check references. A reliable contractor will provide names of previous customers.
  • Never pay for a service in advance.
  • Residents should not pay anyone who claims to represent FEMA for any services or assessments. FEMA
    does not charge a fee for home damage assessments. Residents are advised to be aware of this possible
    scam. If you have been contacted by someone who you feel is acting as a FEMA agent, you should contact
    the 911 Center immediately.

If problems develop call the The Wisconsin Department of Agriculture, Trade and Consumer Protection toll free
hotline: 1-800-422-7128 or visit their
website.
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Preferred Home Repair & Services, LLC. assumes no responsibility regarding the accuracy of the flood information that is provided by
Preferred home Repair & Services, LLC., and use of such information is at the recipient's own risk.

Preferred Home Repair & Services,LLC. or agents and employees will not be liable for any damages of any kind arising from site use,
including, but not limited to direct, indirect, incidental, punitive, and consequential damages or other losses of any kind or character, including
loss of or damage to property, claims of third parties arising out of or in connection with the use of this website or any website with which it is
linked. You assume responsibility for your actions in regard to the flood information provided.
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